Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
