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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.